In a country, where cricket dominates the sports spectrum, leaving hockey and squash as poor second and third cousins respectively, any talk about the fascination of polo may come as a surprise. But few can deny the breath-taking spectacle on what is called the roof of the world.
Last week Chitral-A defeated their arch rivals Gilgit-A 9-7 in the final of the Shandur Polo Mela — some 12,500ft above sea level.
More than a sport, it is a passion with the people in this part of the world.
Northern Pakistan is home to it, showcasing the annual festival named after the place where it is held — Shandur.
To watch the fast and furious game played on literally the highest polo ground of the planet, you simply must give yourself a sporting chance.
The fortunate ones have been out and about, for centuries, and a retrospective look here is in order.
Polo is an equestrian sport with its origin embedded in Central Asia dating back to the sixth century BC. At first, it was a training game for cavalry units for the King’s guards or other elite troops.
To the warlike tribesmen who played polo with as many as hundred players to a side, it was a miniature battle. It became a Persian national game in the 6th century AD.
From Persia, the game spread to Arabia, then to Tibet, China and Japan. In China, in the year 910, death of a favourite relative in a game prompted Emperor Apao-Chi to order beheading of all players!
Polo was introduced in South Asia, by the Muslim conquerors in the 13th century. English word ‘Polo’ is actually a Balti word meaning, ‘ball’. Now, there are just six players to a side, but this is by no means a rule in local polo games.
There was no limit to the number of players and no time limit. Whichever team scored nine goals first, was the winner. The present game with a team of six players in a side, lasts one hour with a ten-minute break.
Gilgit, Chitral and Skardu have always played the game of polo closest to its original form. In the past, local Rajas, Mirs and Mehtars were the patrons of the game. At times, more than 50 per cent of the annual budget of their principalities would be spent on supporting the game.
The first time a polo tournament took place at the Shandur Pass, was in 1936. A British Political Agent, Colonel Evelyn Hey Cobb, who was fond of playing polo under a full moon, had the polo ground near Shandur, named, Moony Polo Ground.
Cobb felt that, because the moon seemed so close to earth, his dream of playing polo in the light of a full moon could be realised.
The site is described dramatically as being on the ridge between Heaven and the descent to Hell.
It was agreed that the games should be held between the best teams from Chitral and Gilgit, and played following the centuries-old rules of Ali Sher Khan, a descendant of Genghis Khan.
Today, polo is played in all its genuine alacrity on the high grounds of the Shandur Top, at 12,200 feet. In the bowl shaped valley, surrounded by rugged Karakorams and the Hindu Kush, one end of the polo field touches the blue waters of the tranquil Shandur Lake.
The dramatic setting at this high altitude is deliberately chosen for this annual July event because Shindur is located right at the dividing line between the Gilgit and Chitral districts.
However, it is always wise to check on the final dates of the event before taking the long unmetalled road up the Shandur Pass.
The Shandur Mela is a pretty organised affair and it is no surprise that it is a keenly awaited event on the tourist calendar. The local passion and enthusiasm is in itself a precursor to the shape of things to come.
The highlight of the festival is the final match between the Gilgit and Chitral teams. The final provides a most colourful spectacle. Supporters of both sides travel long distances from the remote parts of Chitral and Gilgit, to watch the thrilling game.
The polo on the naturally green ground of Shandur is still played in rough form. The polo ground in the Shandur Pass is smaller in width and breadth than the conventional field, being 60yd wide and 220yd long.
Also alien to a modern western player would be the 2ft high stonewall, which surrounds the ground. In ice hockey, such a wall could prove advantageous — in polo, it could lead to serious injuries in the event of a fall.
The event, as such, offers a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the people of this region. Their culture and indigenous customs are a delight to behold for the visitors.
Horses for the game are kept and fed better than the family members. It is a kind of power play and only thoroughbreds can survive. People are so mad about the game that the winning players are lifted on the shoulders when they leave the arena.
The game is fast — tremendously fast. The Pakistani-bred Punjabi and Afghan Badakshani ponies, both the result of breeding from Himalayan mountain ponies and English thoroughbreds, are ridden in a wild style, with a lot of skill and at full tilt.
A total of twelve players are not afraid to use their sticks to hit not only the ball but also, and vehemently, the arms and shoulders of their opponents. Broken arms and ribs do not stop the players, after an interval for bandaging and splints, to continue the game.
The game, more than anything else, demonstrates excellent maneuvering skills between man and his beast, and how they pursue their target, the ball. The Gilgit players are the traditional hot favourites whirling the ‘magic sticks’, as most of the tournaments are won by them.
However, recently the Chitralis seemed to have taken charge of the game and have won a few tournaments, defeating the legendary Gilgitis. This has added to the excitement associated with the tournament.
In addition to the polo, there are other attractive cultural activities in Shandur Mela is a five-day affair with polo enthusiasts, mountain lovers, writers, photographers, mountain bikers, hitch-hikers and the general public all converging to get their slice of the action.