Darel is a captivating valley and tehsil of Diamar district in Northern Areas. It can be approached from Shatail a small town in Kohistan. After crossing the bridge which is built over Indus, one enters the territory of Darel. Rugged mountains and gushing waters of Darel river, which run into Indus near the bridge, welcomes the visitors. A jeepable road from the bridge leads to the Gumari, a headquarter of Darel. From Gumari one can go to the tail of valley at Yeshoot.
Like other parts of Northern Areas, Darel also abounds in the places of historical and archaeological significance. Wooden mosque exists in almost every village. However, those at Gayal, Phuguch, Somigal, Manikyala Bala, Manikyala Pain, and Yeshoot are noted for decoration. Apart from ancient mosques, there are remains of forts located in some villages of Darel. Of these the destroyed fort of Gumari is worth-mentioning. This fort is believed to have been built by Pakhtun Wali khan. Pakhtun Wali Khan ruled over Darel, Tangir, Harban, Sazin and Shatial. Pakhtun Wali Khan belonged to Khushwaqte, the ruling family of Yasin, a branch of the dynasty of Chitral. The British called Indus valley below Chilas and its tributary valleys like Darel Tangir, Kandia and many smaller communities Yaghestan, ‘land of free’. No ruler before Paktun Wali Khan ever dominated these vallies. It was he who ruled the roost and exploited the rich resources of Tangir and Darel.
The first village that welcomes the visitor is Gayal which is tucked in rugged mountains of Hindukush.
This village is noted in the valley for its wooden houses. Almost every household in the village carries an intricate carving indicating the social position and status of the owner in the community. However, the door frames of the dwellings are ornately carved. An old wooden mosque also dots the landscape of the village. This mosque is great specimen of wooden architecture and blend of local and foreign elements. Arcade façade of the mosque carries interesting schemes of floral designs. According to Ghaffar Khan of Manikyala, the Gayal village is believed to have been founded some three centuries back. The old village was situated some seven kilomtres from Gayal village inside the Gayal Nullah (side- valley) by the name of Lolo Kot. The ruins of the Lolo kot can still be seen spreading over a large area. The ruins of fort and graveyard still exist in the deserted village of Lolo Kot. The inhabitants of Lolo kot were non-Muslims and converted to Islam by some learned men from Swat. The first wooden mosque was commissioned by these learned people from Swat. Later on, when the inhabitants left the Lolo kot and settled in the Gayal they also brought the pillars and other architectural elements to reuse these at Gayal mosque.
After Gayal the second village that one happens to pass by in Darel is Phuguch. Phuguch is enchanting and picturesque village situated on Darel river. There also exists a wooden mosque in the village that dates back to eighteenth century.
The mosque is profusely decorated with floral and geometric designs. Nevertheless, pillars of the mosque are more lavishly adorned with floral and geometric designs. Similar designs can be found in the Khamikot mosque in Tangir.
In front of the mosque, there is open space with wooden platform for Jirga. There is tradition among Darelis to erect wooden platforms either near mosque or on the bank of river. Sometimes, these wooden platforms receive especial attention so far as the decoration is concerned. One finds types of platforms for Jirga, the simple and the decorated. One of the most splendid platforms in Darel is located in Manikyala Pain. The distinctive feature of the platform is ornamentation. Apart form that there are many decorated wooden platforms for Jirga located in various villages in Darel.
The wooden mosque at Somaygal Bala is ornately carved. It consists of rectangular prayer chamber. In design the mosque has the same system as at Phuguch in so far as the mihrab faces the verandah. Right in front of the mihrab there is huge square pillar decorated with floral and geometric designs. The flat roof of the prayer chamber rests on three central square pillars, none of which have bracket capitals. However, the flat roof of covered verandah rests on five pillars. Three pillars are tapering and fluted and stand on square base with pot motif above it. They have double volute bracket capitals each enclosing different motifs. Every architectural element of the mosque is tastefully decorated.
Apart from Somigal mosque, there are two wooden mosques at Manikayala Bala and Manikyala Pain. Some renovations have been carried out in these mosque thus losing their original past glory. There are some others mosques in Darel where renovations have been carried out. Among these mosques of Manikyala Pain and Yeshoot are prominent.
If government is sincere in promoting tourism in Darel, it has much to offer. The concerned authorities should make concerted efforts in this regard and open a tourist centre at Gumari and furnish the tourists with guidance regarding the ancient monuments of Darel. If they do not open the tourist centre in Darel, then they otherwise base themselves at Chilas, headquarter of Diamar, and take the tourists to the valley to show them archaeological sites and historical mosques and carved wooden coffins.