History remains alive in the shape of memories. These memories may be the poetic work of Ghalib, paintings of Picasso or literary excellence of Shakespeare. Another area which preserves history for coming generations is architecture. There are many examples of such architectural memories but very few of them are considered master pieces. One of such historic master piece is Rohtas Fort or Qila Rohtas. It is an important surviving example of early Muslim military architecture in Asia.
Qila Rohtas is situated off the GT Road at Dina, approximately 16 km North West of Jhelum. It was built in the reign of Farid Khan popularly known as Sher Shah Suri during 1541 to 1543. Interestingly, the founder of the Sur Dynasty of northern Indian rulers, Farid Khan was given the title of Sher Khan or The Lion King when he killed a tiger single handedly.
Sher Shah named the garrison fort “Qila Rohtas” after capturing the famous Rohtasgarh Fort in Shahabad district near Baharkunda from the Raja of Rohtas Hari Krishan Rai in 1539. The Rohtas Fort was built to block Emperor Humayun’s return to India after defeating him in the Battle of Kanauj. The other reason for its construction was to suppress the local tribes of the Potohar region, the Gakhars who were allies of Humayun and refused their allegiance to Sher Shah Suri.
Rohtas Fort has many distinct features. Its thick walls, gates, wells or baolis, Shahi Mosque, Haveli Man Singh and gallows enhance its beauty. The walls of the Rohtas Fort are up to 41 feet thick and 60 feet high. These walls have two or three terraces. Their thickness varies at different places; the maximum is 43 feet near the Mori Gate. The terraces are linked by staircases. The topmost terrace has merlon-shaped battlements. Muskets could be fired from these battlements. These walls were used to stop the enemy by pouring molten lead over the walls. The total length of these walls is more than four kilometers.
There are 12 gates in the fort built of Ashlor Stone, varying in height, width and deepness including Sohail Gate, Shah Chandwali Gate, Kabuli Gate, Shishi Gate, Langar Khani Gate, Talaqi Gate, Mori or Kashmiri Gate, Khwas Khani Gate, Gatali Gate, Tulla Mori Gate, Pipalwala Gate and Sar Gate. These all gates are best examples of masonry, decoration and artistic work of that era.
Some gates are given names to pay homage to the personalities i.e. Sohail Gate is named after a saint Sohail Bukhari. Shah Chandwali Gate was named in the name of a saint to acknowledge his services who refused to receive wages against his services from the contractor of the Fort. Khwas Khani Gate is named after Sher Shah Suri’s greatest general, Khwas Khan.
Some of the gates are named on the basis of regions i.e. Kabuli Gate, Kashmiri Gate while Talaqi Gate was given this name after the incidental death of a legend Sabir Suri. Few gates are not the gates but the entrances i.e. Tulla Mori Gate, Pipalwala Gate. Gatali Gate was given this name due to its attachment with a stream while Sar Gate due to its attachment with a well.
Shahi Mosque is situated inside the Fort near the Kabuli Gate. The prayer chamber of the Mosque is 64 feet long and 24 feet deep along with a courtyard. Islamic verses are written in Naqsh script surrounded by Lilly on the outer wall of the Mosque. This design was later used by Mughals in Tomb of Jahangir, Tomb of Nur Jehan and the Shah Burj Gate in Lahore Fort.
In old architecture, Baolis were the small wells with downstairs to get water. Three Baolis are in the fort made by cutting deep into the lime rock. The Main Baoli having 148 steps is in the middle of the Fort that was for the use of Army of elephants and horses. The Shahi Baoli near the Kabuli Gate was for the Royal family having 60 steps and small chambers as bath rooms. A small Baoli near the Sar Gate was most likely for the use of soldiers and staff.
Some structures in the fort were built later i.e. Haveli Man Singh was built by Raja Man Singh during Akbar regime. Rohtas Fort reflects Afghan architecture while Haveli Man Singh resembles Hindu architecture. Small gallows near Haveli Man Singh were to hang the miscreants and the rebellions.
An engraved stone over the Shishi Gate reveals the cost of construction of the fort as “The amount is 16, 10, 00,000 Dams and something more, which is 34, 25,000 Rupees of Hindustan, 120,000 Tumans of Iran or 1,21,75,000 Khanis of Turan”. According to Tarikh-i-Daudi, its cost is 80,505,002 Dams (Bahlulis).
Different rulers of the region used this fort during their reigns. At the end of the Suri dynasty, Emperor Humayun returned to rule India. When Humayun returned, the Governor of Rohtas, Tatar Khan Kasi fled. This fort was never popular with the Mughals. Emperor Akbar and Jahangir both stayed here for a single night only. The later Mughals made no use of the fort.
The Durranis kept a garrison and a Governor here. The Sikhs held power after the Durranis. Maharaja Ranjit Singh was in a camp in the Fort when he heard the news that his greatest general Hari Singh Nalwa had been killed at Jamrud by the Pukhtuns under the leadership of Wazir Akbar Khan. The Maharaja gave the fort to Sardar Mohar Singh who was succeeded by Gurmukh Singh. It was subsequently leased to different people and the last person to manage Rohtas was Raja Fazal Din Khan who joined Sher Singh in revolt.
Due to its impressive architectural and artistic work, this fort was needed professional care to preserve this historical asset. The Qila Rohtas was selected as World Heritage by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) on December7, 1997. The committee selected this property on the basis that the Rohtas Fort is an exceptional example of the Muslim military architecture of central and south Asia, which blends architectural and artistic traditions of Turkish and the Indian sub-continent to create the model for Mughal architecture and its subsequent refinements and adaptations.
The present look of Rohtas Fort is improving day by day with special attention of The Himalayan Wildlife Foundation (HWF). This 16th century monument is now protected by The Department of Archaeology, Government of Pakistan. Sincere and continuous efforts for its maintenance may bring its early days glory as it was built by Sher Shah Suri.