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A peep into the historical Serai Kharbuza
Visits 746
Visits 746
December 16, 2011
The landscape of Islamabad is dotted with many historical monuments. Almost every other village has the structure of historical significance. However, the Mughal period monuments are quite prominent which are located in different villages and towns of the capital territory. They include Akhbar period mosque in Kuri town, Kenthala Baoli (stepped well) in Kenthala village, tombs at Mohra Malhiar near Shah Allah Ditta village, the tomb of Akbar’s soldier at Bagh Joghian, the platform type graves in Dadocha village and caravan Serai at Serai Kharbuza etc.

Caravan Serai is situated 4 km off the G.T Road. The road leads up to the caravansarais passing through the modern bazaar of the Sarai Khurbuza town. The Serai is believed to have been built by Jahangir. But it appears to have been built by Ghakhar chief because during the Mughal rule they were the lords of this region. The architecture of Serai resembles more with the fortress at Dhan Gali in Kallar Syedan tehsil which was built by Mai Mangho, the wife of Sultan Sarang Khan Ghakhar, the cultural hero of Ghakhar tribe.

Mughal emperor Jangangir built many structures which today lie in the proximity of Islamabad. Some of the monuments associated with him are Mughal garden at Wah, Jamia mosque of Wah Gardens (though some associated it with Akhbar’s times and Jahangir only renovated it) and several Baolis. The Mughals built several caravan serais along the G.T road. However, Serai Kharbuza is different from others in terms of plan and architecture. It is built in a plain square with four octagonal bastions on four sides. It is constructed of stone boulders and burnt bricks. Stone boulders look like Kharbuza (melon) that’s why it came to be called as Serai Kharbuza. It had two gates opening to the east and the west. Between the two gates was a bazaar where economic activities took place. In the centre of the Serai is located a mosque and Baoli (now located inside the house of Muslim Khan Awan). Unfortunately, he has locked the room from where one can have the access to the baoli.

Nowadays, more than 70 families belonging to three different castes namely Khattars, Awans and Arains live inside the Serai thus damaging every part of it badly. “Until 1990, the serai was in a good condition and there was no encroachment by the people” said Liaqat Khattar”. The southern and eastern ramparts have partially survived whereas the western and northern are completely damaged by the residents.


There are several cells small and large inside the wall of the serai which were used for ordinary and the state guests or officials respectively. There were also separate cells or rooms from the Muslim and non-Muslims who were served by attendants of their respective faith. The living quarter or cells now have either been razed or turned in to cattle pen. In the winters, cattle are kept in these cells. The cells indicate the aesthetics of the builders as one finds beautiful horizontal panels on both alcoves and the interior cells which were ostensibly created for embellishments.

There also lies a mosque in the centre of the Serai. Recently, it has been repaired by the locals. Some extensions were also made before the original three arch entrances. It is three-domed structure. The squatting domes and four corner kiosks add beauty to the structure. The mosque is similar to one located in Kuri town which is believed to have been built by Akbar. It has also similar squatting and corner kiosks as seen on Serai Kharbuza mosque. The mosque still survives some frescoes on the domed ceiling and mihrab. Likewise, cut brick ornamentation on the cells is also splendid.

This serai is prototype of the Suri period Serias. In the Mughal period caravan serais are found all ancillary facilities like bazaars, baolis, mosques, and living quarters As one travels on the G-T road from Attock to Lahore, one comes across many caravan serais built by the Mughals. Prominent among them are Begum Ki Serai in Attock, Serai Hasanabdal, serai Kala at Taxila, Serai Kharbuza in Islamabad, Rawat Serai (also called fort), Sultan Serai near Rohtas fort etc.

The authorities concerned should protect Serai Kharbuza which once dominated the Mughal highway. It can be the best tourist site as tourists visiting the capital city only rush to see the Buddhist monuments of Taxila.

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